Episode 36: 2017 Bordeaux, Chef Sylvestre Wahid & Boneshaker Doughnuts Paris

by Paige Donner

Episode 36 Paris GOODfood+wine

For our April in Paris Goodfood+wine show, we take you this month to the city's first freshmade doughnut shop, Boneshaker Doughnuts; we bring you with us on a tête-a-tête with a 3^rd generation Bordeaux château wine expert who tells us about her 2017s just in time for En Primeur; And, lastly, but most certainly not least, you join me for a sit-down with Chef Sylvestre Wahid, the 2-star Michelin chef whose 10-table dining room called Restaurant Sylvestre on rue St. Dominique, offers truly luxury dining and spares no detail in the service, the setting or the cuisine.

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photos by Paige Donner, more on FoodWine.photography

So relax, kick up your feet, pour yourself a glass of whatever is tugging at your taste buds this minute, and join us for yet another episode of Paris GOODfood+wine where we introduce you to some of France's finest wine and food entrepreneurs and experts.

photos by Paige Donner, more on FoodWine.photography

We'll begin the show with Julia Gazaniol whose grandfather purchased Château de Parenchère in 1958. For most wine estates in Bordeaux, 2017 was an especially difficult year, climatically speaking. Many estates lost anywhere from 50 – 80% of their grapes due to late frosts. It was the smallest Bordeaux harvest since 1945. However, as Julia will explain to us in greater detail, the quality remains quite good..

Fresh-baked Paris Doughnuts by Boneshaker Doughnuts on rue d'Aboukir Paris 75002

 

 

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Oh For The Pleasure of Wine...

by Paige Donner (all photos copyright Paige Donner 2018)

There's a new sheriff in town... Or, well that's what it felt like anyway at the brilliant wine dinner hosted by Oenoteam, a wine consultancy based in Libourne, Bordeaux, France.  The dinner was organized here in Paris in the understated chic neighborhood of the 7th arrondissement in the fabulous Atelier Eiffel. The purpose of the wine dinner: to share their joy of wine and a few of their favorite picks with us, members of the press including some of France's most notable wine tasters and critics (Philippe Faure-Brac, Michel Bettane...).

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 SEE PICTURES AND FULL POST HERE

Throughout the evening, the Oenoteam partners - Stéphane, Julien and Thomas -  would catch one or another of us scribbling down tasting notes and, with a wine taster's religious fervor, copying down the name of the estate, the vintage year, the varietal blend and other technical and non-technical details. And they - Stéphane, Thomas and Julien - would gently remind us that the evening, this particular wine dinner, was for the pure pleasure of it. And with Chef Vivien Durand of Le Prince Noir in Bordeaux (1*Michelin) overseeing the kitchens, joy was not in scarce supply.

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It reinforced a TEDX talk I once sat in on where a wine consultant, I believe she was based in Oregon, told her audience that the quickest way to kill your wine buzz is to make it your life's profession. I'm not sure that I totally agree with her, but there have been times, in fact many times, when tasting your way through dozens of new vintages can become something of a chore. Tasting 100 wines all in a row becomes work. And when wine becomes work, the pleasure - doesn't disappear - but it does diminish.

How gentlemanly of them then, to host a dinner for their few dozen favorite Paris-based wine writers and critics for the sole purpose of sharing. Sharing in the real sense - time, delight, conversation, moments spent with like-minded (and some not so like-minded) people.

Laughter. Joy. Wine. Good food.

Before there was instagram, twitter and facebook, this was the real meaning of sharing. Sharing time and sharing experiences. Breaking bread with your fellow (wo)man. Wine, for thousands of years, has of course played a central part in this kind of sharing.

Thank you Oenoteam. Thank you for not killing the wine buzz. But rather for nurturing it - with gentleness, enthusiasm, gentlemanliness and passion shared amongst others,

Another TEDX talk I listened to not so long ago was given by another female wine writer and critic who travels around the world, tasting great wines. She said that wine has kept her humble. To be included in these special moments, with people who have spent generations cultivating vineyards and lovingly putting this nature's elixir into bottles so that it can enjoyed by others, is humbling.

And there is only one response that such an experience evokes, and that is deep gratitude - for all that went into creating such a moment. And for this most divine of nature's gifts, Wine! 

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BOOK Your Perfect Pairings Wine Seminar Today!  

Book directly HERE:  2 hours of tasting and learning all about French wines and which foods they pair best with!

BOOK Today!

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Soupçon de Graman - Crémant de Bordeaux

by Paige Donner

Harvested by hand this dry rosé, full of bubbles which exhibit finesse and fine acumen, makes a good showing for the rising star of Crémant de Bordeaux.

The vines are cultivated in Landerrouat, an appellation bordering on the Southwest of France that is authorized to make AOC Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur and Crémant de Bordeaux.  

This is a Sunday afternoon wine to be consumed with friends enjoying a relaxing time together in a sunny living room or on a garden deck/terrace.  It's also the perfect wine to preface chicken on the bbq which could easily follow this when served as aperitif with some savory-sweet appetizers.

Cépages : Cabernet Sauvignon. Récoltés manuellement en cagettes  .

(Cabernet Sauvignon: Harvested by hand)

A déguster en apéritif et en dessert.

(To enjoy with hors d'oeuvres or with dessert)

Dégustation/ Tasting

Appearance: a beautiful salmon with light pink reflections. The bubbles, as noted, are fine and refined and leave your tastebuds following the vinous notes of the wine.

Nose: Raspberry freshness tempered with a bit of fruitier cherry. When this sparkling edges towards room temperature these notes mellow a bit and become a more generous confiture type profile.

Mouth: Freshness and a fair bit of acidity accents the presence of red (raspberry) fruit in the bottle.

Oeil : teinte parfaitement saumonée avec de legers reflets « pink ». Les bulles sont très fines tandis que la mousse abondante laisse s'épanouir un cordon tout autour du verre, signe de la parfaite élaboration du vin. 
Nez : très expressif et franc annonçant des notes de framboises et cerises fraîches tandis qu'il évolue vers des notes confiturés lorsque le vin se réchauffe. 
Bouche : c'est la fraicheur qui marque l'attaque avec une finale tout en finesse qui finit par révéler des arômes fruités et variés.

IF SO INSPIRED, YOU CAN FIND THIS SUGGESTION OF A COCKTAIL ON THEIRWEBSITE: 

Idée cocktail : Cocktail Suggestion 

Ingrédients :

1 petite louche de pulco citron  / lemon pulco

1 petite louche de cointreau / cointreau one part

1 petite louche de sucre en poudre cristallisé / dash of powdered sugar, crystallized

1 bouteille de crémant rosé 75 cl / mix with the botltle of rose crémant

des glaçons / ice cubes

Verser tous les ingrédients dans une carafe, et ajouter les glaçons. / PUT EVERYTHING IN A CARAFE, ADD ICE CUBES AND MIX GENTLY

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Episode 35: Grand Café Tortoni, Chef Arbalaez & Olivier Giraud

by Paige Donner

If there was ever an episode of Paris GOODfood+wine that will make you want to book the next flight to Paris, it's this one.

First up, we have the utterly charming and so very humble, Victoire de Taillac who is the co-owner, along with her husband, of Le Grand Café Tortoni. It's newly opened in the Upper Marais on rue Saintonge and here she gives us the very colorful backgrounder on why every schoolchild in France has already heard of Le Grand Cafe Tortoni.

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BOOK Your Perfect Pairings Wine Seminar Today!  

Book directly HERE:  2 hours of tasting and learning all about French wines and which foods they pair best with! 

BOOK Today!

---

 

Then, we take a little intermission break and speak with a local Parisian celebrity, namely Olivier Giraud. He's the star performer of the one-man show, How To Become Parisian In One Hour. He's amused and delighted audiences since first performing his hour-long routine at the Théâtre des Nouveautés in the Grand Boulevard district of Paris just about 8 years ago now.

 

Lastly, we turn to the Parisian-by-way-of-Colombia young chef, Juan Arbalaez who was so inspired by lemons that he named his newest restaurant Limon. He'll tell us all about that here on the show.

So, get ready for yet another enticing, appetizing, delicious and tempting episode of Paris GOODfood+wine.

 

All music free of rights courtesy FreeSoundtrackMusic.com FunkMe by Mike Vekris and Groovy Paris Jazz by BensoundMusic.com for show Intro and Outro.
To contact Paige Donner for speaking/hosting/producing paigedonner.info
For more info about Paris GOODfood+wine and a complete show lineup go to localfoodandwine.wordpress.com
And our website parisfoodandwine.net
Instagram @paigefoodwine Twitter @parisfoodwine

Listen to Paris GOOD food + wine on :

All photos (where noted) copyright 2018  Paige Donner  FoodWine.photography

iTunes – Paris GOODfood+wine / 

Media Engagements, speaking and collaborations: contact http://PaigeDonner.info

Château du Rivau, Loire Valley France Day Trip

by Paige Donner

Planning a day trip from Paris is always a fun undertaking. Even if the designated day or weekend is still weeks away, just thinking about getting out of the city and into some good countryside fresh air feels exhilarating.

(All photos courtesy Château du Rivau © 2017)

Château du Rivau in the Loire Valley offers just such a day trip. This château has been renovated and refurbished with painstaking TLC by its family owners. Today, one of the daughters also runs the newly opened restaurant which serves up the fresh vegetables she cultivates on the property in the way of fresh soups and salads. Served with warm, crusty just-baked bread and some of their very own AOC Chinon (Cab Franc), this makes for a delicious, hearty, healthy meal any time of year but especially in late winter or early spring when there is still a nip to the air.

Château du Rivau es des Ecuries Royales (royal stables) et ses jardins de conte de fées (fairytale gardens) stand ready and waiting to welcome you. What's more, these gardens are deserving of their 'fairytale' designation since they have preserved some of the oldest strains of seed and vegetables found in the Région Centre-Val-de-Loire and are labeled CCVS (Conservatoire des Collections végétales Spécialisées).

The nearest main train station is in Tours and then you can arrange with the château in advance for their driver to come and collect you for the picturesque 45 minute ride to the property. In all, it's about 2 hours journey from Paris.

 

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All photos (where noted) copyright 2018  Paige Donner  FoodWine.photography

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Episode 34: Marché des Enfants Rouges & Savennières AOC Loire Valley

by Paige Donner

For our 34th Episode of Paris GOODfood+wine, we focus on the Marché des Enfants Rouges located in Paris' Upper Marais as Julie Collas, star of the one-woman show, OMG, She's Parisienne!, takes us on a walk through this fabled Paris covered market. 

 

We then turn to Evelyn de Pontbriand, the president of Savennières AOC in the Loire Valley and owner of the prestigious domain, Château Closel, to tell us all about this distinct white wine made from Chenin Blanc in the Loire Valley of France. 

Julie Collas, star of the one-woman show, OMG, She's Parisienne! pictured here at the Marché des Enfants-Rouges in the Upper Marais, Paris 

The Savennières AOC region of France's Loire Valley

Show Script:

Marche' des Enfants Rouges

The Marché des Enfants Rouges  - the name in English translates to "Market of the Red Children" - is Paris' oldest covered market

It was established in 1628  and refers to the children clothed in red (the color of charity) who were cared for in a nearby orphanage.

The market offers fresh fruits, vegetables, flowers ,bread, cheese, wine, but is most well known for its market stand restaurants where shoppers can buy prepared meals and dine on site in a lively atmosphere.

My interview with Julie Collas, the mastermind behind OMG She's Parisienne, a stand-up show that plays every weekend here in Paris, took place here at the Marché des Enfants Rouges. One recent Friday evening. we shared a glass of wine at the charming wine bar, BiboVino on the rue Charlot side of the Marché.

Le Marché des Enfants Rouges is located at 39 Rue de Bretagne in the Marais, the (3rd) arrondissement.

We then turn to a very distinct Loire Valley appellation called Savennieres. It's known for its Chenin Blanc grown in schist – or shale – soils and is typically more full-bodied than dry Vouvray,

Savennieres is situated on the north bank of the Loire River, in the Anjou-Saumur subregion near Angers.

It is generally a dry white wine as we'll see in my interview with Evelyn de Pontbriand who is the president of the Savennieres AOC and the owner of Domaine Closel, Though, as Madame de Pontbriand explains, it can also be sweet as well as sparkling.

There are three Appellation d'origine contrôlées (AOCs) for Savennières wine: 

Savennières, covering most of the vineyards, and then the enclaves Savennières-Roche-aux-Moines and Savennières-Coulée-de-Serrant.

The area allowed for Savennières AOC spreads over 3 hills on the northwest bank of the Loire and totals about 300 hectares ( or 740 acres), situated in three villages: Savennières, Bouchemaine and La Poissonnière.

Of these, about 146 hectares are actually planted with vineyards.Savennières-Roche-aux-Moines covers 33 hectares (82 acres) and Savennières-Coulée-de-Serrant covers 7 hectares (17 acres).

Savennières was originally defined as an AOC in 1952, which was then revised in 1996 to introduce designations for sweet wines.

To have more information on the Academie du Chenin, international Chenin Blanc lovers network, Chenin Blanc think tank visit our website: www.academieduchenin.org  Use with no moderation #cheninblanc #chenincheninchenin #drinkchenin #cheninday

All music free of rights courtesy FreeSoundtrackMusic.com 'Crystalline City by Steve Lowther and Groovy Paris Jazz by BensoundMusic.com for show Intro and Outro.
To contact Paige Donner for speaking/hosting/producing paigedonner.info
For more info about Paris GOODfood+wine and a complete show lineup go to localfoodandwine.wordpress.com
And our website parisfoodandwine.net
Instagram @paigefoodwine Twitter @parisfoodwine

Listen to Paris GOOD food + wine on :

 

All photos (where noted) copyright 2018  Paige Donner  FoodWine.photography

iTunes – Paris GOODfood+wine / 

Media Engagements, speaking and collaborations: contact http://PaigeDonner.info