Queen’s Wine, New York (?!)
The Queens County Farm Museum (http://www.queensfarm.org/) in New York is making and selling its own wine, which goes on sale this month. The AP’s Warren Levinson check’s out New York’s new brew.
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Wednesday, May 12, 2010
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
Chef Roland St. Pierre, Locals Restaurant
Chef Roland St. Pierre, Comox Valley
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- Chef Ronald St. Pierre, Locals' "Pride and Joy"
A stay in Comox Valley, Vancouver Island would feel black and white, gray even, without dining out at least one meal - if not daily - at Locals Restaurant in Courtenay. Where the colors of nature greet you at every turn, this is a Valley bursting with vibrancy. If there's one thing nature loves, it's color: The eye-popping yellows and purples of Spring flowers, the deep greens of leafy vegetables, the dark reds of vine-ripened tomatoes, even the fleshy pinks of fresh salmon.
Comox Valley's Pride And Joy
“Locals – Food From The Heart of the Island” is the pride and joy of Chef Ronald St. Pierre who, with his wife, have created a dining experience that represents the culinary best of Vancouver Island's Comox Valley. To walk through Locals' doors is like walking into an Island Chefs Collaborative Farmers Market turned restaurant.
The exterior is humble enough. In fact, the praises that were sung about the restaurant and Chef St. Pierre, his philosophy and his passion for fresh, local ingredients did not prepare me for finding the restaurant to be the cornerstone in a Courtenay strip mall. As a first-time visitor to the Island, at every turn I was struck by the quaintness and charm of old farms, wooden buildings, even Courtenay itself is a picturesque little town entirely walkable with cheerful cafes and shops that line 5th Street, its downtown core and the center of Comox Valley. But now I know why people had failed to mention the restaurant's exterior – once you've eaten there, what's outside doesn't matter. The restaurant's interior is tastefully appointed, with a second room that has large booths for a private dining experience. But truly, the only thing you remember is how good the food is!
Chef Roland St. Pierre is a pioneer in translating “locavorism” into the driving philosophy behind a successful restaurant. Mind you, on Vancouver Island, locavorism is the common mind-set and to do otherwise is, well, frankly absurd. The Comox Valley especially is an abundant bread, fruit, cheese, meat and seafood basket. It could easily be named “Valley of Plenty” so abundant is all the fresh quality fare within arm's reach. The Locals' website explains their philosophy and reasoning, such as, "Buying habits are shifting with 'food currently tied with health as our 4th top spending priority.'” It's definitely worth reading if you at all consider yourself a foodie. Or a greenie.
So Chef Roland and his wife got to talking with local farmers and growers and saw what could be directly sourced for their table. They create their seasonal menus around the ingredients available. Pattison Farms, for example, supplies their fresh greens such as baby spinach, heirloom tomatoes and spicy mustard greens. Beaufort Vineyards supplies them with wine, as do other local vineyards like Chase & Warren Estate Winery and Cabrea Vineyard & Winery as well as the many vineyards just a bit south in the Cowichan Valley.
As part decoration and as part tribute, Chef St. Pierre hangs his walls with portraits of the farm-to-table suppliers he sources his fresh, local ingredients from. If you are keen to do a tour of the Valley's prime growers for ingredients ranging from pork to duck, tomatoes to broccoli florets, goat cheese to mussels to ancient method balsamic vinegars, take a look at Locals' walls, jot down the names and then work your way down the “wall.” With this itinerary, curated by Locals' Restaurateurs Chef and Mrs. St. Pierre, you are guaranteed to enjoy a thoroughly fresh and authentic introduction to some of the Island's star growers and local farmers.
Local's Market Sheet Menu
The price points are also exceedingly reasonable. More often than not Locals' has a Prix-Fixe or Market Sheet menu to order from. Depending on the season, for $35 you can have a seared duck “prosciutto” appetizer, a main-course of Bison (or fresh caught salmon) and a medley of desserts including fresh off-the-farm raspberry mousse. Or you can order a' la carte from the menu. Either way, you'll leave exceedingly, freshly satisfied.
Reservations suggested. 384 8th Street Courtenay, BC Canada Reservations 250-338-6493
Monday, May 3, 2010
Grapes, Wine And Climate Change
How much trouble does climate change mean for agriculture? Just ask the wine industry.
By Mark Hertsgaard
JOHN WILLIAMS has been making wine in California's Napa Valley for nearly 30 years, and he farms so ecologically that his peers call him Mr. Green. But if you ask him how climate change will affect Napa's world famous wines, he gets irritated, almost insulted. "You know, I've been getting that question a lot recently, and I feel we need to keep this issue in perspective," he told me. "When I hear about global warming in the news, I hear that it's going to melt the Arctic, inundate coastal cities, displace millions and millions of people, spread tropical diseases and bring lots of other horrible effects. Then I get calls from wine writers and all they want to know is, 'How is the character of cabernet sauvignon going to change under global warming?' I worry about global warming, but I worry about it at the humanity scale, not the vineyard scale."
Williams is the founder of Frog's Leap, one of the most ecologically minded wineries in Napa and, for that matter, the world. Electricity for the operation comes from 1,000 solar panels erected along the Merlot vines; the heating and cooling are supplied by a geothermal system that taps into the earth's heat. The vineyards are 100 percent organic and—most radical of all, considering Napa's dry summers—there is no irrigation.
Yet despite his environmental fervor, Williams dismisses questions about preparing Frog's Leap for the impacts of climate change. "We have no idea what effects global warming will have on the conditions that affect Napa Valley wines, so to prepare for those changes seems to me to be whistling past the cemetery," he says, a note of irritation in his voice. "All I know is, there are things I can do to stop, or at least slow down, global warming, and those are things I should do."
Williams has a point about keeping things in perspective. At a time when climate change is already making it harder for people in Bangladesh to find enough drinking water, it seems callous to fret about what might happen to premium wines. But there is much more to the question of wine and climate change than the character of pinot noir. Because wine grapes are extraordinarily sensitive to temperature, the industry amounts to an early-warning system for problems that all food crops—and all industries—will confront as global warming intensifies. In vino veritas, the Romans said: In wine there is truth. The truth now is that the earth's climate is changing much faster than the wine business, and virtually every other business on earth, is preparing for.
All crops need favorable climates, but few are as vulnerable to temperature and other extremes as wine grapes. "There is a fifteenfold difference in the price of cabernet sauvignon grapes that are grown in Napa Valley and cabernet sauvignon grapes grown in Fresno" in California's hot Central Valley, says Kim Cahill, a consultant to the Napa Valley Vintners' Association. "Cab grapes grown in Napa sold [in 2006] for $4,100 a ton. In Fresno the price was $260 a ton. The difference in average temperature between Napa and Fresno was 5 degrees Fahrenheit."
Organic Farming In Africa
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- Organic Farming can help feed Africa's population
Organic Farming In Africa
Nairobi - The 'green' revolution is underway in Africa, meeting widespread support from farmers and consumers. Unlike the biotech green revolution envisioned by many, this one is environmentally friendly.
This green revolution is a return to more natural methods of cultivation, with a preference for organic techniques. A recent Food and Climate Change workshop hosted by Media21 in Nairobi brought renewed attention to Africa's organic movement. The theme of the workshop, held April 12th to 16th, was How will Africa feed her Children? Convened just for journalists, the workshop aimed to train journalists on sustainable food systems and nutrition. Research presented at the workshop stressed the importance of small-hold farmers in filling Africa's food needs. Some African nations see organic agriculture as a method that will open up new global markets. The United Nations sees organic food production as a way for Africa to feed itself while creating more valuable agricultural products, saying it is
"... a sustainable and environmentally friendly production system that offers African and other developing countries a wide range of economic, environmental, social and cultural benefits."
Most African farmers are subsistence farmers, barely able to produce enough food for their own needs. To be successful, agricultural production in Africa has make it past a large number of hurdles, such as pests, soil health, lack of access to good seed, and climate change. Biotech crops have been touted as the next green revolution for Africa, but the fact that the first green revolution failed Africa for more than a few years demonstrates the major weakness of relying on biotech to provide the solutions to Africa's hunger problems. Still, some people, like Bill Gates insist that biotech can enhance food security in Africa.
“We have to develop crops that can grow in a drought; that can survive in a flood; that can resist pests and disease. We need higher yields on the same land in harsher weather. And we will never get it without a continuous and urgent science-based search to increase productivity.”
Mozambique was one of the first countries to take up idea of implementing the biotech green revolution. Although the country implemented a plan to use biotech to reduce the need for imported food, supporters have cautioned
“This is a program that will take 10 years, 20 years to bear fruit.”
Proponents of the biotech green revolution say the new agriculture can save Africans from hunger and provide income for farmers through increased productivity. However, world grain production is higher than ever, thanks largely to biotechnology, but there are still massive numbers of people experiencing hunger in Africa. The difficulties facing successful agricultural production in Africa are multiple, and the answers will never be simple. that said, organic production techniques, combined with traditional growing methods are resulting in some notable increases in yield, proving natural green farming is just as promising as biotech. One outstanding organic success stories is that of Tigray, Ethiopia; a story that highlights the importance of diversity in the success of agricultural practices for the continent. The ten year experiment in Tigray not only reversed damaged soil, crop yields were increased through the practice of composting.
A recent programme offered jointly by the Food and Agriculture Organization and Germany saw 5,000 small scale African farmers receive guidance on growing organically, as well as other training and supports, ultimately resulting in many of those farmers able to sell their organic crops on international markets. The Food and Agriculture Organization anticipates that international markets for fair trade and organic food products will increase by at least 5% over the next three years, and the industry reflects that confidence, saying it expects slower, but steady growth into the near future. There are approximately 800 million Africans suffering from hunger, a statistic that translates to 1 in every 3 people lacking food.
Thursday, April 29, 2010
Most Romantic Mollusc
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Smittys Oysters – Smittys Oyster House -
Smittys Oysters – Smittys Oyster House Sex Shells: Exposing the Sunshine Coast’s Most Romantic Mollusc
By Darren Robinson
Move over Viagra, there’s a new libido launcher lining the waters of BC’s Sunshine Coast. And the pearl of this love story is the foundation of a new scientific study that intends to prove (or dispel) the ancient myth that oysters can increase human sex drive. Sex sells, and here is not the place to argue the details of the study or its validity and acceptance by the medical world, we just want to know if it’s true. And
according to the study, it is. But millions of grinning people from all around the world that solemnly swear by the steamy power of this slimy sea delicacy have known this for ages.
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- Romantic Molluscs - Darren Robinson Photography
What we do know is that this study supports a more natural way to kick your love life into high gear; likely with fewer side effects.
So if oysters are in fact a natural aphrodisiac, then BC’s Sunshine Coast may very well become known as the land of getting-it-on. Think about it. All the primary ingredients necessary to elevate your love life are all right here in abundance on the West Coast of Canada. Magical beaches. Check. Captivating sunsets. Check. Solitude and serenity. Check. Beautifully-appointed accommodations. Check. Waterfalls straight out of fairy tales. Double-check. Unspoiled nature. Check. Oysters aplenty. Check and check.
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- Kayaking The Sunshine Coast– Darren Robinson Photography
Situated only 40-minutes from Vancouver and less than 90-minutes from Vancouver Island, the Sunshine Coast is made up of charming coastal communities including Gibsons, Sechelt, Pender Harbour Powell River, Lund, Texada Island and Savary Island. All encompassed by pristine waters (fresh and salt), coastal mountains and old-growth forests, the Sunshine Coast draws visitors from around the world
wanting the very best in outdoor adventure, mental and physical rejuvenation, and romance.
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- Lund Harbour at sunset – Picture BC
The journey starts with the love boat. Not the one with Captain Stubing, Gopher and Isaac, but whichever boat you choose to get yourself, and your loved one here.
BC Ferries operates regular sailings year round, or perhaps a romantic private charter is more what the love doctor ordered. No better way to impress your date than by showing up to his/her door in a private boat. Check.
If your love happens to get sea sick easily, no need to surrender the night, there are available alternatives. Pacific Coastal Air will deliver you to Powell River from Vancouver in less than 30 minutes. Of course, there are also float planes that would happily fly you into any of the many surrounding area lakes in premiere fashion.
Once on the Sunshine Coast, the oysters take centre stage.
In Gibsons, on the southern end of the Sunshine Coast, Smitty’s Oyster House will prepare an oyster feast sure to get any mojo working quickly. The restaurant prides itself on enticing all of the senses of those who enter its doors. Shell-shocked lovers can be caught savouring a bevy of local shellfish, including Jervis Inlet oysters, Salt Spring Island mussels, and Savary Island clams both indoors and from the patio with a backdrop of glistening water and towering coastal peaks. The oysters are starting to kick in.
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- Sunrise image – Thors Cove Cottage www.thorscovecottage.com
For a gastronomic oyster overload on the upper Sunshine Coast, The Laughing Oyster’s David Bowes prepares innovative and creative seafood dishes while guests delight in panoramic views of Okeover Inlet, the welcome gate to Desolation Sound Marine Park. Gunpowder Prawns, Wild Salmon and Spinach Crepes, and oysters anyway you like them round out a seafood menu of the Gods. On many nights the
romance is further enhanced with live music, sometimes straight from the guitar-wielding hands of the Executive Chef. By now, your senses are likely overwhelmed in a state of oyster-induced bliss.
If the “shaping clay” scene of Ghost infamy is a fantasy of yours, then Thors Cove Cottage should be next on the date list. A water taxi will bring you to the cottage’s shores in Lancelot Inlet for an oyster experience unlike any other. Delight in an escorted tour of their oyster farm, where you will learn about seven species of oysters, clams and mussels cultivated on approximately forty shellfish farms in the inlet
complex. The tour appropriately ends with a seafood feast that includes Oysters Grilled in Salsa with Jalapeno Cheese, Locally Smoked Oyster Pâté, Oyster Seviche, Oyster Baguette, Grilled Oysters with Pesto, and Oven Baked Parmesan Oysters. You’ll be asking for your room key before you can say Oysters Rockefeller.
Romance is in the salty-air. If you yearn for a more natural approach to sexual therapy, you might want to consider the Sunshine Coast in lieu of filling your next prescription of the little blue pill at your localpharmacy.
www.discoverpowellriver.com * www.sunshinecoastcanada.com
Darren Robinson is a freelance writer and professional photographer from Powell River, on BC’s Sunshine Coast. He can also be found some afternoons at Powell River Tourism. His images can always be found at www.darrenrobinsonphotography.com.
Green New Zealand's Pinot Noir And Gewurz
New Zealand and Green
By 2012 100% of New Zealand's wine will be produced under approved, independently audited, sustainability schemes. That's what the country's entire wine industry committed to in 2007. Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand promotes best practices across a broad area of sustainable resource management, including water usage, energy consumption, waste management and biodiversity. Currently 75% of winery production and 85% of vineyard area are participating in the SWNZ program.
New Zealand's Gewurztraminer
There's a guy, in the region of Gisborne on the North Island, Nick Nobilo, who is so passionate and so committed to growing the world's best Gewurztraminer, that he'll surprise you with his dedication. Gisborne varietals are known for being highly approachable, soft and lush. This Gewurz is opulent and its lychee, rose-petal notes will delight. Nick grows his Gewurz on gravelly soil in an area known more for its Chardonnay. Expect to have any and all preconceived ideas dashed.
Vinoptima Reserve Ormond, Gewurztraminer Gisborne, '06
New Zealand Pinot Noir
There's something happening in New Zealand these days and it's more than just their Sauvignon Blanc. In a country whose wine industry made it on the map largely thanks to the Sauvignon Blanc grape, many are now predicting a shift towards Pinot Noir becoming the dominant varietal of this island wine-producing nation.
Marlborough is one of the regions where Pinot Noir has been planted. “Some of the Pinot Noir vines in Marlborough are only 5, 6, 7 years old. It'd be great to spotlight our Pinot Noir wines in another 10 years,” said John Ferris of Villa Maria Estate Cellars. “We have about 30 vineyards in the Southern Valleys. The vineyards hold water well. The wines will age well; they have a lot of structure.”
Wairarapa is another region growing Pinot Noir grapes. It's in the southernmost part of the North Island. It's a “small region with a big reputation,” and is already “especially acclaimed for its mouth-filling, richly flavored Pinot Noirs.” Paddy Borthwick vineyards planted some Pinot Noir vines in rocky soil, where the “rocks were bigger than me,” fifteen years ago, said Robin Borthwick.
Gladstone is another winery in the region growing the grape. Their label, 12,000 Miles is reference to how far it was to sail from Scotland to Wairarapa when they came and first settled the land. Christine Kernohan makes the wine and David, her husband, runs the fully sustainable and bio-dynamic winery.
Central Otago is the region in the South Island that is perfumed with the fragrance of wild thyme. Winemakers from across New Zealand have been buying grapes from Central Otago for some time, though it has mostly been the Sauvignon Blanc grapes in past years. Now the winemakers who are savvy to consumer trends are buying up the Pinot Noir harvests from the area.
Waitiri Creek Wines is run by Central Otago born and bred Paula. She is currently excited about some new plantings in an area called the Terrace in the region. She liberally refers to her Pinot Noir's “wonderful florality,” has nicknamed it “Dirty Sex,” and describes it by saying it exhibits, “magnificent beasts on the nose; you're not sure if you should drink them or wear them and that's only IF you can keep your hands off it.” She first planted her vines in 1993.
Villa Maria Cellar Selection, Pinot Noir, Marlborough, '08
Paddy Borthwick, Pinot Noir, Wairarapa, '08
Gladstone, 12,000 Miles, Pinot Noir, Wairarapa, '08
Waitiri Creek, Pinot Noir, Central Otago, '07
There are 643 wineries spread across 10 major winegrowing regions in New Zealand. One in every 200 bottles of wine produced in the world comes from New Zealand. 95% of N.Z. wines are under Stelvin or “screwcap” enclosures to ensure quality. N.Z. wine is known to be food-friendly wine.
Monday, April 26, 2010
Green New Zealand's Pinot Noir And Gewurz
New Zealand and Green
By 2012 100% of New Zealand's wine will be produced under approved, independently audited, sustainability schemes. That's what the country's entire wine industry committed to in 2007. Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand promotes best practices across a broad area of sustainable resource management, including water usage, energy consumption, waste management and biodiversity. Currently 75% of winery production and 85% of vineyard area are participating in the SWNZ program.
New Zealand's Gewurztraminer
There's a guy, in the region of Gisborne on the North Island, Nick Nobilo, who is so passionate and so committed to growing the world's best Gewurztraminer, that he'll surprise you with his dedication. Gisborne varietals are known for being highly approachable, soft and lush. This Gewurz is opulent and its lychee, rose-petal notes will delight. Nick grows his Gewurz on gravelly soil in an area known more for its Chardonnay. Expect to have any and all preconceived ideas dashed.
Vinoptima Reserve Ormond, Gewurztraminer Gisborne, '06
New Zealand Pinot Noir
There's something happening in New Zealand these days and it's more than just their Sauvignon Blanc. In a country whose wine industry made it on the map largely thanks to the Sauvignon Blanc grape, many are now predicting a shift towards Pinot Noir becoming the dominant varietal of this island wine-producing nation.
Marlborough is one of the regions where Pinot Noir has been planted. “Some of the Pinot Noir vines in Marlborough are only 5, 6, 7 years old. It'd be great to spotlight our Pinot Noir wines in another 10 years,” said John Ferris of Villa Maria Estate Cellars. “We have about 30 vineyards in the Southern Valleys. The vineyards hold water well. The wines will age well; they have a lot of structure.”
Wairarapa is another region growing Pinot Noir grapes. It's in the southernmost part of the North Island. It's a “small region with a big reputation,” and is already “especially acclaimed for its mouth-filling, richly flavored Pinot Noirs.” Paddy Borthwick vineyards planted some Pinot Noir vines in rocky soil, where the “rocks were bigger than me,” fifteen years ago, said Robin Borthwick.
Gladstone is another winery in the region growing the grape. Their label, 12,000 Miles is reference to how far it was to sail from Scotland to Wairarapa when they came and first settled the land. Christine Kernohan makes the wine and David, her husband, runs the fully sustainable and bio-dynamic winery.
Central Otago is the region in the South Island that is perfumed with the fragrance of wild thyme. Winemakers from across New Zealand have been buying grapes from Central Otago for some time, though it has mostly been the Sauvignon Blanc grapes in past years. Now the winemakers who are savvy to consumer trends are buying up the Pinot Noir harvests from the area.
Waitiri Creek Wines is run by Central Otago born and bred Paula. She is currently excited about some new plantings in an area called the Terrace in the region. She liberally refers to her Pinot Noir's “wonderful florality,” has nicknamed it “Dirty Sex,” and describes it by saying it exhibits, “magnificent beasts on the nose; you're not sure if you should drink them or wear them and that's only IF you can keep your hands off it.” She first planted her vines in 1993.
Villa Maria Cellar Selection, Pinot Noir, Marlborough, '08
Paddy Borthwick, Pinot Noir, Wairarapa, '08
Gladstone, 12,000 Miles, Pinot Noir, Wairarapa, '08
Waitiri Creek, Pinot Noir, Central Otago, '07
There are 643 wineries spread across 10 major winegrowing regions in New Zealand. One in every 200 bottles of wine produced in the world comes from New Zealand. 95% of N.Z. wines are under Stelvin or “screwcap” enclosures to ensure quality. N.Z. wine is known to be food-friendly wine.
Argentina - Going The Distance
Going The Distance
You've heard it said that “A little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing,”...When it comes to wine, it's a limiting thing, particularly, for our purposes here, wines from Argentina. Limiting one's exploration of a region's vines will simply result in a myopic view of the country's wines. And, sadly, the only one who loses in that equation is you.
Knowledge Equals Taste
In the next couple of paragraphs you will get a concise explanation of why there's more to Argentina than Malbec. The intention is that you will be the richer – in taste, anyway – for it.
Argentine Native Vines
You won't go wrong reaching for a Malbec, or even a Bonarda, from Argentina. You'll also be in good hands reaching for a Torrontés from Salta or Mendoza, a Pinot Noir from Patagonia, and with some discernment you're on safe ground with Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc.
“Wine talks about the people, the region, the country. It brings the country alive,” recently commented Ambassador Julio Miller, Consul General of Argentina to British Columbia, Ontario and several other Canadian Provinces, while he and his Chilean wife attended the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival, where Wines from Argentina enjoyed much of the spotlight.
Argentina has been growing vines and making wines since the 16th century. To speak with some of the wineries and winemakers is to get a real sense of the entrenched tradition, of families whose names are synonymous with wine and wine making, and to feel how deeply rooted the wine culture is with the land and Argentina itself.
Surprisingly, it has really only been in the past 20 years that their export market has developed. Clean water from the Andes mountain range, the excellent Argentine climate of prevalent sunshine and little rainfall coupled with advanced technology and up-to-date vineyard management, make it not just the world's fifth-largest wine producing region, but also a favorite among those with a discerning palate and critical clout alike.
Torrontés: 100% Argentinian
As a varietal, Argentina claims Torrontés as native. There are different theories about the grape's origin, the commonly accepted one is that it developed as a combination of Muscat and Criolla Chica which is another Argentine native variety.
If Malbec is Argentina's King, Torrontés is its Queen. “Torrontés is Gewurztraminer in sheep's clothing,” commented Gismondi who moderated the Going For Gold panel at the recent Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival co-sponsored by Wines of Argentina. “It pairs well with fish, seafood, Thai, Pan-Asian, spicy cuisines,” he added, noting it is a good wine for B.C. and “drinks so well in Canada because it sounds like 'Toronto.'” He added, reverting to a more serious note, that it also pairs well with empanadas from Salta, the northern-most wine growing region in Argentina as well as the spicier empanadas from Mendoza, Argentina's main wine growing region, in the middle of the country.
Torrontés Is Not Gewurztraminer
Torrontés as a varietal is more elegant than a Gewurz; it is aromatic but dry in the mouth. It is a slightly suprising wine in that its nose, almost even as pungent as a Gewurztraminer, leads your mouth to expect a splash of sweet, when in fact what you get is a dry, full-flavor profile that is light, elegant and reminiscent of white peaches and roses, even in some instances, geraniums. It is a golden-hued wine, sometimes with a hint of green light, and can be described as “pure fruit salad.”
Much of it is grown in the provinces of Mendoza and La Rioja and is called, respectively, Torrontes Mendocino and Torrontes Riojano. The province to watch for Torrontés, is Salta. Grown at an elevation of nearly 2,000 meters, it is one of the highest wine growing regions in the world. It works because they have so much sunshine. As a point of reference, Salta is at about 23 degrees S. latitude, Mendoza at about 33 degrees S. latitude, and La Rioja is between the two. Argentina is a very big country, spread north to south.
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Luigi Bosca, one of Argentina's oldest winemaking families.
To try: Luigi Bosca, Finca La Linda, Torrontés, '09. Luigi Bosca is one of the oldest names in Argentine wines. Vineyards were planted in 1901 by the great grandfather of Alberto Arizu who currently oversees the winery and also sits at the head of Wine Industry, Argentina. This wine captured gold this year. Torrontés is a varietal they've been making wine from only since '06. “It wasn't an easy decision for us to go as far as Salta,” said Arizu recently. “We put all of our name, history on this grape. We see it has a promising future. The consumer is looking for simpler wines, a purer sense of the flowers. We now produce 25,000 bottles of this a year. We want to show to the world the uniqueness of this grape.” Notes: White peach, roses. $13.99 special order
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- O. Fournier Winery in Mendoza, Argentina
O. Fournier Urban Uco Torrontés '09. Proprietor Jose Manuel Ortega, a relative newcomer to winemaking and a Spanish transplant to Argentina, grows his grapes in the Uco Valley in the Region of Cuyo just west of Mendoza. “I got into the wine business because everyone has the right to waste their money as they see fit,” he'll tell you, explaining that he was once a Wall Street investment banker. He names his vintages after the stars of the Southern Cross Constellation. His wife, a chef (now), runs the beautiful “Urban Restaurant” at their winery in Uco Valley, Mendoza. “Gewurz at 1/3 the price.”
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- Salta is in the Northernmost part of Argentina.
Bodegas Etchart, Etchart Cafayate Reserve Torrontés, '09 The Etchart name is synonymous with Torrontés as a varietal. As a wine in Argentina, Torrontés was “seeded by” Bodegas Etchart. They will tell you that it is the only varietal that originated in Argentina and this has been authenticated by UC Davis. Their vines are at least 60 years old; they've been growing in the Cafayate area of Salta in the North, which is “close to the Tropic of Capricorn,” for generations, explained Viktor. The Etchart family has 200 hectares of Torrontés under cultivation, and believes that this wine “will be successful for Argentina in the future.” Notes: Light, elegant; tame nose; rose, grapefruit, citrus, lime; $16.95 special order
Special Exploration
For further exploration, keeping with whites from Argentina, Bodegas Trapiche, Finca Las Palmas Chardonnay, Trapiche Single Vineyard Viña Federico Villafañe, '07. This golden-hued, light, crisp wine was 100% barrel fermented. My taste buds sparked to it even before Gismondi and Robinson both declared it “a sensational wine.” Trapiche is a name in Argentine Wine that dates to 1883. Their winery is located in Uco Valley in Mendoza which is 1,000 meters above sea-level. Their winemaker, Daniel Pi, said that “in '07, we reinvented the Chardonnay in the winery.” Notes: fruit-forward, minerality, toasted bread; $22.99 special order
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- Try their Chardonnay '07!
Vina Dona Paula Los Cardos, Sauvignon Blanc, '09 “Best Sauvignon Blanc from Argentina.” These grapes are thriving at the high altitude of Uco Valley. They get 300 days of sun. The winemaker begins his harvesting a bit earlier, does a cold fermentation and then straight to the bottle. 2002 was their first vintage. Notes: blackberry, blueberry, violets; $13.99
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Winery with inn attached. Bodega Vistalba.
Bodega Vistalba Progenie Brut Nature NV This bubbly is full of “new energy, new ideas,” said winemaker Carlos, hence its name “progenie” which refers to the progeny of the winery's original winemaker, whose children created this celebratory vintage in honor of his 90th birthday. They produced it in '05, did a second fermentation in '06. It is a blend of 60% pinot noir, 40% chardonnay and it was made using traditional champenoise method. It is good to note that Bodega Vistalba operates a Relais Chateau designated restaurant and inn on their winery property in Mendoza; they also offer a Progenie Extra Brut that's equally as delightful. $54.99 special order
Patagonia Pinot Noir - Condemned To Quality
Patagonia and Pinot Noir - “Condemned To Quality”
- Patagonia, Argentina
Patagonia is Argentina's southernmost wine-growing region. Its Pinot Noirs have gained in popularity the past six years, since most of the Patagonic vineyard plantings around 2000. The three wine-growing areas of Patagonia are Neuquen and Rio Negro along with Chubut. Rio Negro is the only area in the region that's been planted for over 90 years.
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- The Schroeders are a European family deeply rooted in Patagonia and well-known for their solid enterprising profile. All their wines are hand harvested. The vineyards are certified Organic under ISO 22000 and Global Good Agricultural Practices "GAP".
The Landscape And Terroir
Patagonia is known as cold and windy with starkly beautiful landscapes. It was recently designated as the No. 2 most wished for travel-adventure destination. There's one inhabitant per square meter in a country whose population is 40 million.
To travel from Mendoza, Argentina's main wine-growing region, to Neuquen, in Patagonia, you will cover 800km. The crop yield from the two areas is just as contrasting: Mendoza averages 60 tons per acre, whereas Rio Negro yields approximately 20-25 tons per acre. Hence the phrase, “We are condemned to quality,” explained Federico Boxaca of Familia Schroeder, the Patagonia winery that makes the 100% Pinot Noir vintage, Saurus Patagonia Select Pinot Noir.
- Patagonia's Pinot Noirs, "Condemned To Quality"
North Patagonia's growing conditions are ideal for Pinot Noir. This delicate, old and noble variety requires an arid climate, short summer and cold winter. The Pinot Noir grown in Patagonia has smooth tannins, a deep ruby color and aromatics of black fruit.Argentina's Late-comer
The logistics of Patagonia is what makes it a regional late-comer to the game of grape growing. “It's long been perceived as too expensive and too unpredictable,” explained Boxaca. In fact, when Chandon started his winery in Argentina in the 60's, they first looked at Patagonia. They found that it gave great acidity, at the levels necessary for sparkling wines. However, since the train tracks were long laid by the English and span from Buenos Aires to Mendoza, easy access to Patagonia has been a long time coming.
Boxaca illuminates the region's good qualities even further: “We have soft, well-developed tannins; good acidity and low PH.” This is achieved through good vineyard management, one that has been developed to counter the ravaging of the region's wind factor.
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- Patagonia Winery.Most wineries of the region have restaurants and lodges.
The wineries of Patagonia have adapted their viticulture technology to the terroir characteristics so as to allow for high-quality wine – in this case Pinot Noir – production. Boxaca explained that growing a healthy vineyard of Patagonia Pinot Noir requires these three main things:
- A wind shield of planted Poplar trees around the vineyards to protect the vines from being overly stressed;
- The night to day temperature drop of about 20 degrees c. which amounts to good acidity, and
- The extra hour of sunlight which works for the harvest in this case. The chalky, Patagonia soil, formed by glaciation, houses deep round pebbles, something the Pinot Noir vine has taken a liking to.
It is said that in Argentina there are three things to drink: Water, water with wine, and wine. It is also said that a newborn baby, to stop it from crying, is offered a finger dipped in wine to pacify it. In a country where 40% of the population is descended from Italian and 30% from Spanish, it is no wonder that wine is so much in the blood.
The important thing here to consider, is Does the Patagonia Pinot Noir have that “drinkability factor?” That is, when you take a sip does your mouth water, is it appetizing, does it make you want to drink more? The answer is a resounding Yes. “There is much more to the Argentine story than Malbec,” commented Gismondi who toured Argentina's wine regions and came away with a solid sense of the country's wines. “The food is fantastic and in Argentina wine tasting is an adventure.”
In Patagonia there are currently a total of no more than seven wineries, including Familia Schroeder, Bodega del Fin del Mundo and Humberte Canale. Over 50% of the wineries have lodges and restaurants, noted Boxaca. Patagonia's “stunning landscapes” feature steppes, forests, glaciers and lakes.
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- Patagonia Wineries
Familia Schroder's Icon Wine features a simple metallic label and is a heavy, thick-glass bottle. They've only made 1,000 cases for the world. It's a blend of 54% Pinot Noir, 46% Malbec and in '08 their '04 vintage took gold in Le Mondial du Vin competition in Switzerland. Velvety on the mouth, ripe-red, dark berries.
“Soft tannins is what we have in Argentina,”commented Daniel Pi who is the head professor at the Oenological Department at the University of Mendoza in Argentina. “We can ripen the grapes until the time when we pick them. We don't have to pick the grapes early. We are far from the ocean and its cooling breezes. We don't have the pressure to pick the grapes because they are cold.” Wine Harvest, with its attendant pagan expressions and spectacular moments, is in March.
Argentina and its Gaucho Heritage of Mounted Horsemen.
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