Sunday, December 19, 2010

Bettane & Desseauve Festival of Wine

Bettane & Desseauve's Festival of Wine

Le Grand Tasting, Paris

On a recent weekend in Paris, I found myself underneath the glass pyramid of the Louvre, in the grand marble Agora Exhibit Hall, spitting out champagne. And not just any champagne, the best champagne in the world:  Louis Roederer, BollingerVeuve Fourny et FilsPiper Heidsieck, Perrier- JouëtG. H. MummNicolas FeuillatteVeuve Clicquot PonsardinMoët et Chandon...When Moët poured me their 1975 Reserve Vintage, that's when I started drinking. It would have been a sacrilege to spit that out.

If there is a metaphor for the Festival of Wines that Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve have organized for 5 years now, it is this: Your cup runneth over.

le Grand Tasting, Paris, 2010 - Local Food And Wine

At the festival, named Le Grand Tasting, I found myself in an earthly paradise filled with many of the world's best wines, from mythical vintages to ones barely known outside of their own appellations, and most all of them from France. This year, 2010, as an exception, there was a side exhibit of Italian wines also featured.

As a local explained to me, Bettane & Desseauve are more than just a couple of France's most celebrated and respected wine journalists, they are even more than simply the authors of Le Grand Guide des Vins de France, they are the "Robert Parkers of France and French wines."

Bettane & Desseauve on Local Food And WineAnd they are exceptionally approachable people. You will not find Wine Snob here.

This year's event was held over the Friday and Saturday of December 10th and 11th at Paris's Le Carrousel du Louvre, which is the underground shopping center/ exhibit hall that is right underneath the Louvre. For a mere 25 Euros you could taste your way through more than 2000 wines and 350 individual producers from France and a small representation from Italy.

"We have Festivals of Film, we have Festivals of Litterature, but until Le Grand Tasting we haven't had a Festival of Wine...Every wine, like a book or a film, tells its own story. It is the story of the winemaker, of the creator, and sometimes, of genius..." said Thierry Desseauve who, with Michel Bettane, is the co-founder of Le Grand Tasting.

WATCH VIDEO HERE

Desseauve and Bettane, according to Desseauve, have plans to take their show on the road to English-speaking countries. Their highly successful Hong Kong Festival of Wine earlier this year has injected them with enthusiasm and they are starting to eye the U.S. and Canada.Their Grand Guide des Vins de France will be published in English in 2011 by Abrams Books.

When asked how was it to take the Festival of Wines to Hong Kong, Desseauve replied that he enjoyed the Chinese habit of embracing fast-paced development and he also noted that as Europeans, they are accustomed to dealing with significantly different cultures and languages. He pointed out that Germany, Italy, Spain are just as different from French culture as is the Chinese culture, in many respects.  Both Bettane and Desseauve invested many years as journalist and wine critic at La Revue du Vin de France until it was bought by the Marie Claire publishing group five years ago, which is the same time they founded Le Grand Tasting.

According to Bernadette Vizioz, press liaison for the event, 10,000 people attended Le Grand Tasting over the course of two days. It's not hard for them to keep count, the price of admission includes a glass for the wine tastings, supplied by Riedel. The attendees on average were surprisingly young and very much the trendsetting crowd. I've heard mention a few times that the regional wine syndicates are actively promoting their wines particularly among the French whose consumption of their native juice is down significant percentage points in recent decades.

Le Grand Tasting does its part to elevate wine drinking to its proper podium among Gen Y in France. And the event is doing so in ways that present the people who make the wine as people who are just like you and me, except they spend their days in grape vineyards and in fermenting cellars. What sold out in advance were the special courses, such as the Master Class, that took place simultaneously in the rooms adjacent to the Hall Agora. The standout of these courses was, according  to French site iDealwine « Le Génie du Vin ».

The 'Genius of Wine' class, included Cuvée René Lalou by Mumm (1998 Vintage), Chateau Angélus 2000, Chateau Gruaud Larose 2000, Clos de La Roche GC (2004) from Domaine Dujac,  Châteauneuf du Pape (1998 Domaine duVieux Télégraphe,  château Climens 1989, Ridge Monte Bello represents California and finally riesling Clos Ste Hune 2000 by Trimbach.

Another sold out course offering, of which there were 20 separate classes, was l'Ecole des Terroirs. I managed to bump into a few Americans while I roamed the airy, well-lit, elegant and wonderfully climatised hall - underneath the Louvre! - who were thrilled to have just accidentally happened upon the festival last year.

This husband and wife marvelled at the feast of wines they were getting to taste, all for a mere 25 Euro entrance fee. They loved last year's event so much that they actually planned their trip around the Festivalthis year. We North Americans couldn't help but compare Napa's $25 average cost per wine tasting flight/ per winery to the 25 Euro entrance fee which put 2000 wines, including the best champagnes in the world, at your fingertips and lips. The only limitation to your wine tasting is the hours in a day and your stamina for how many tastings you can fit in.

Le Grand Tasting marked a few firsts this year,  notably in the category of positioning themselves more internationally. To that effect their Italian space welcomed 2000 visitors in a relatively small area of 90sq. meters located towards the back of one of the main halls.

In addition, this was the first year that they invited notable European wine critics:  José Penin (Espagne, Penin), Neil Beckett (Grande-Bretagne, World Of Fine Wine), Armin Diel (Allemagne), Marco Sabellico (Italie, Gambero Rosso), Enzo Vizzari (Italie,L’Espresso)!

An elegant, hip, affordable, culturally illuminating wine tasting event,  Le Grand Tasting's Festival of Wine is not to be missed.

Read More Here: Guy Savoy and Thierry Desseauve discuss holiday food + wine pairings.

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Tuesday, December 14, 2010

Agriculture and the Green Revolution

In case you missed it, the following is a summation of some of the topics included in the recent Conference that took place in the "Salad Bowl of the Nation," Salinas, California.  Go to LOCAL FOOD AND WINE...

Read More About The Food Economy on Local Food And Wine

Another Drop In the Bucket: The Use of Hydroponics in Commercial Agriculture
View Presentation.

Deborah Walliser, Executive Director, Solsustech Inc. - View Bio.

As the world population increases, natural resources such as land, water and food become increasingly valuable.  The industry that feels the effect of all three is also charged with providing safe, healthy and sustainable food  for its consumers while battling natural disasters and changes in the political landscape.  One way to generate fresh healthy food, while using less water and resources is found in age old systems combined with today's technology.  Through this partnership, simple fast food production centers can be set-up all over the globe providing increased revenue and jobs for US business. The use of hydroponics  in the fresh produce industry can change the landscape of global food production while putting the US at the forefront of the industry.

Urban Green Agriculture
View Presentation.

William Butler, Chairman, GIT-Green Innovational TechnologiesView Bio.

This talk will focus on the uses of Multi-Technologies in the many fields of Water Treatment, Solar Energy, Fish Farming, Hydroponics and the raising of Food both Meat and Vegetables within the Water Environment, and the use of “Green” as a conduit of sustainable technologies, which are at hand right now to produce a viable and sustainable, yet simple solution to many of our problems today. Having experienced many tours and travels around the world, I have been able to cross pollinate many technologies to become more then what they were. Case in point was a tour of the Waste Water Treatment of the City of Shen Zhen. 

We saw 10 different types of treatment, but one stands out as useful for the sustainability of Human Life and would be able to contribute to a higher Quality of Standard Lifestyle in the future. This was the Mei Shanyaun Apartments in which I saw an Aquarium with a fish inside being fed by the Bacterialogically treated Waste Water from these apartments and this caused me to think and research what could be a next breakthrough in Water Treatment. So by using this technology and others to come up with a sustainable Ecosystem within the Environment of the Urban Culture, we can provide a better life for all; both the Urban and Rural Communities.

Growing Energy with the Sun, Becoming a Solar Farm
View Presentation.

Michael Gumm,
 Executive VP & Co-Founder,SunPods Inc. -View Bio.

In California with plenty of sun and land, going solar in the agri-world makes perfect sense to drive down your energy cost and to create a greener business image. The agricultural community with large plots of land and operations that require large amounts of energy is starting to embrace Solar whole-heartedly.  Large, grid-tied photovoltaic systems harvest the power of the sun and save any unused energy for later through net metering, creating a cushion of kilowatt-hours for future use. 

Some examples solar energy in agriculture can power include:
·         lighting and heating
·         crop and grain drying
·         greenhouse heating
·         Irrigation
·         Fruit, nut and vegetable processing and packaging
·         Grape and wine processing
·         Remote electrical supply 

Going solar is not difficult and today there are a number of ways to install and finance solar that we will explain.

Advances in Technology to Lower Cost of Waste Water Compliance while Producing Renewable Energy
View Presentation.

John W. Kuhry, Business Development, Real Green Power, Inc. View Bio.

Confined Animal Feeding Operations generate millions of tons of manure and billions of gallons of wastewater every year.  Uncontrolled greenhouse gas emissions and associated stench from the waste contribute heavily to global warming.

Methane is 25 times more harmful to the atmosphere than CO2.  A number of energy efficiency improvements recently developed can significantly lower the cost of compliance with the clean water act. By capturing and processing the methane produced in the treatment of  wastewater, a huge renewable energy resource is created. Anaerobic Digestion is the only viable solution that produces, rather than consumes energy. It is a solution  for farms of a few hundred to millions of animals, from many different animals including pigs, cows, chickens, ducks and geese separately or together.

For the Full Agenda Click HERE. 

 

Wednesday December 01, 2010, 03:30PM PST

Event Type: Conference
Location: The Fox Theater
241 S Main St
Salinas, CA 93901 US

 

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Sunday, December 12, 2010

Caviar Kaspia, Paris

Caviar Kaspia: Amour, Passion, Folie

After the opening private reception for BVLGARI at the Grand Palais, where else would one dine than at Caviar Kaspia, Pl. Madeleine?

The more wisdom (?) I accrue, the more I realize that the world is but one big treasure. The key is to intuit the map that allows you to decipher the secret passages that guide you to the soft, exquisite, and often delicious, hidden treasures.

For the most part, the "hidden" treasures are hidden in plain sight. Paris is full of these. One of the most famous is Caviar Kaspia.

Caviar Kaspia sits discreetly and prominently, on the Place de la Madeleine and has done since 1953. When he founded his business in Paris in 1927, Russian immigrant Arcady Fixon simply wanted to share the culinary best his country had to offer with the city's glitterati. In those days, when Paris was  comfortably settling into its own as the world capital of haute couture, of arts and letters,  of the ballet and opera...Caviar Kaspia instantly appealed not just to the Russian artistocracy who were flocking to the city, but also to the elegant society as they retired from their evenings at the Opera or Comèdie Française, to the dancers from the visiting Russian Ballet of Monte Carlo...indeed Caviar Kaspar quickly became the place to dine for Paris's privileged society.

Private Dining On Place de la Madeleine

Walking up the narrow wooden stairs on the left as you enter the 8eme's Caviar shop, you begin to feel like you have just fallen down the rabbit hole. For the upstairs dining room is sumptuousness itself. On a cold wintry December night, sipping Cuvée Kaspia champagne, swallowing dollops of Beluga Caviar, and washing it all down with velvety, fiery, iced Russian vodka...well, does it get any better? Oh yes, imagine having the chance to talk to the Bulgari jewels exhibit designer for the Grand Palais Paris show during dinner. Ok, now, can it possibly get any better?

But it does. The service as Caviar Kaspar is the kind that is impossible to train for. Either a person understands graciousness and has the gift of anticipatory intuitiveness, or they don't. At Caviar Kaspar, the waiters are not just handsome, they are gracious, discreet, present, and anticipate all your desires even if it's simply to replace your slightly warmed glass of champagne with a fresh, exquisitely chilled one.

The iconic restaurant creates seasonal special menus. Click HERE kaspia_sylvestre for the Menu de la Saint-Sylvestre 2010. Their classic appetizer is the raw smoked salmon served with blinis. But if your palate is searching for lighter and flavorful, the crabe royal du Kamchatka salad is divinity expressed on a dinner plate.

Beluga Caviar with Russian Baked Potato, Caviar Kaspia, Paris

Caviar served on a baked potato is one of the Kaspia signatures. Honestly, it is so easy to forget one's good breeding when you see something like that in front of you. The impulse is to dive in. Thank the sea gods that they serve the dish with a small flat spoon that is perfectly designed to lift the caviar off the top of the potato and savor it all on its own.

They offer two categories of caviar: wild or "caviars sauvage" and cultivated or "caviars d'elevage." Of the former category you can try these varieties: Beluga, Oscietre, Sevruga and caviar pressé.

Or you can try: Oscietre Tradition, Caviar d'Esturgeon Blanc, Caviar Impérial Baeri,  Caviar de l'Empereur, Caviar de Printemps.

Caviar Etiquette

As the Parisian purveyors of caviar, they follow a few rules of etiquette for serving and tasting caviar. These are designed to release the fullest flavor and experience of caviar's subtle tastes.

They allow the caviar to "decant," or aerate for at least 15 minutes before serving on a small mountain of ice.  Avoid allowing the tiny grains of caviar to have contact with anything metallic, which is why it is always served at Caviar Kaspar with the small spoon made of either porcelain, glass, or mother of pearl. Always allow yourself the time to roll the small eggs around in your mouth before biting into them to help release their fullest flavor. Always serve with neutral accompaniments such as blinis or baked potato. The drink to pair the meal with is champagne or chilled Russian vodka.

The small dining room that accommodates up to 18 people that is just off to the left of the main dining room has a hidden cache of pictures of top models dancing on its table tops. Which is a good reminder that although caviar is a serious gastronomic delight, we needn't be so serious about it that we forget to delight in the sheer raw exquisite pleasure of the experience. Snow. Place Madeleine, Paris. Bulgari jewels. Grand Palais. Caviar Kaspia. Champagne. Delightful company. Gracious service.

The world is indeed full of treasures!

Caviar Kaspia, 17 Place de la Madeleine, Paris 75008

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Marrakesh House: A Restaurant Without Walls

Local Foods at Marrakesh House

Avant-environmentalists Chef Ricoand Helen McHugh of Go-Green Meetings and Events have partnered up to produce a truly unique culinary experience and holiday event at Marrakesh House on December 10th. The theme of the five course haute organic cuisine meal is “Think Globally - Eat Locally“  and taste buds won’t be the only things to benefit from Helen and Rico’s efforts as they have also arranged for a percentage of the event’s proceeds to be donated in support of  several eco-themed non-profits, including 350.org for its mission to implement global solutions that will end the climate crisis.

Marrakesh House is excited to announce that in addition to the splendid food and wine on offer, special guest speakers Chris Paine(Marrakesh House owner and filmmaker Who Killed the Electric Car?), Shellie Collier(LEED AP Project Manager and founder of design/build firm Homage Design), Christy Wilhelmi (organic gardening guru of GardeNerd) and Tim Skogstrom (owner of Agoura Hill’s gem of a winery, Cornell Winery) will offer expert insight and engaging conversation on greener living, organic gardening and wine tasting and selection.

For a more expansive description of the design of the event, head directly to the Fine Culinary Experience website to buy tickets for what will be a very memorable evening for all of your senses!

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Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Hôtel Fouquet's Barrière Benefit Wine Auction For Reforestation


Dedicated Staff from Hôtel Fouquet's Barrière and Marie-Laure Lurton vineyards at this year's Vendanges in Bordeaux. Proceeds from the harvest, earned at auction, go toward reforestation and also biodiversity research. Photo courtesy Hôtel Fouquet's Barrière  .
« Vente aux Enchères du Fouquet’s 2010 » The Landes Forest of Gascony in southwestern France is the largest maritime-pine forest in France. It is located in the well-loved wine region of Bordeaux. The area was formerly known as “the moors of Bordeaux” and its roughly 10,000 sq. km covers the French departments (counties) of Landes and Gironde.

Landes Forest area in Bordeaux Region of France.
All of this is very important because earlier this week, the Eco Luxury hotel,Hôtel Fouquet's Barrière which regally stands on Avenue George V and the Champs-Elysées, partnered with Bordelaise winemaker Marie-Laure Lurton to auction off the equivalent of 1500 bottles of the new October 2010 harvest to patrons of both wine and the environment.
Rarely does doing right by an Eco-system get to feel this good. Mme. Lurton oversees the making of her wine at three châteaus in Bordeaux: Château La Tour de Bessan – Margaux; Château de Villegeorge – Haut-Médoc; and Château Duplessis – Moulis en Médoc. Last year, 2009, was the first year that she and Hôtel Fouquet's teamed up on the reforestation project for Landes Forest and in support of biodiversity. Last year, the harvest was from hectares within the Villegeorge domain. This year, it was all Margaux.Marie-Laure Lurton Wines from Bordeaux
The auction was presided over by 1992's World's Best Sommelier, Philippe Faure-Brac, who owns the notable Bistrot du Sommelier in Paris as well as being an author and TV-Radio Host. His co-presenter was Pierre Cornette du Saint-Cyr. They both heartily greeted the host of Le Bal de Paris when he made his appearance about 1/3 of the way through the auction, just in time for a key bid.
According to Marie-Laure Lurton, the instigation to partner on this reforestation and funding of biodiversity research came, to a large extent, from the hotel's Purchasing Director, Mssr. Christian Rossi (pictured in top photo, left). Now in its second year, the elegant evening, which saw 150 invited guests mingle with flutes of champagne and bid on batches, and even a few barrels, of Margaux wine in the property's acclaimed Le Diane restaurant, was also hosted by NéoPlanète founder Yolaine de La Bigne.

Hotel Fouquet Barriere's Restuarant Le Diane, Paris.
The harvest is conducted by the Hotel's own staff who man up for the Fall harvest in Bordeaux, and physically pick the grapes off the vines. They harvested 2 hectares for the wine tagged for auction this year, from a total of 29 hectares that is the Domain.
The goal this year was for the auction earnings of the 1500 bottles to top last year's 50,000 Euros in sales that all went for reforestation and tree planting. Some of the total of 61 lots up for bid included Impériales of Cuvée Villegeorge, Jéroboams of the Margaux, Doubles Magnums and even a Nabuchodonosor, the equivalent of 20 bottles. Of exquisite value were the bottles of Pouilly Fumé 1995 that had been stored under the sea. The bottles still had vestiges of shells clinging to the glass. It is rumored that the cool dampness of the ocean helps to age and refine the wine as it reposes in the dusky slumber of watery depths.
In 2009 the Landes Forest was devastated by a major storm that damaged approximately 300,000 hectares (740,000 acres) of the region, 90% of which were located in the Landes Forest. Other companies and organizations who have actively dedicated efforts to the reforestation of the monoculture pine forest are the Walt Disney company and Earth Organization.
The official reasoning of Hôtel Fouquet's Barrière:
The idea to join forces on a shared project took root in 2009: the Hôtel Fouquet's Barrière Grape Harvest aims to produce a harvest which is then auctioned off to fund the reforestation of the Landes forest and biodiversity research.

Harvest 2010, Bordeaux. Photo courtesy www.larvf.com
So far their efforts have resulted in 40 hectares of replanting. In addition, the re-planting supports a solar farm project in the region, which is positioned to be Europe's largest, spanning a total of 3 hectares.This re-forestation project aims at offsetting the areas that are being used for the installation of the solar panels. Hôtel Fouquet's Barrière sees the project as three-pronged:
environmental, human and social.
Both of the partners practice demonstrated commitment to the environment in their businesses. The wineries owned by Marie-Laure Lurton are maintained in an eco-respectful way by herself and her vineyard manager, Emilie Roullé, who shares her commitment to Terra Vitis. Terra Vitis, www.terravitis.com, is a strict code of agricultural methods that pertain to the use of pesticides, chemicals and other additives. Its focus is on caring for the soil.
Similarly, though altogether in a different field, that of Luxury Eco Tourism and hospitality, the Hôtel Fouquet's Barrière is the first Leading Green-certified hotel in Europe. This certification, the L.E.C.S., is administered by Sustainable Travel International and is for luxury tourist properties that incorporate sustainable development into their business practices. The Champs-Elysées hotel also offers guests the option of “Make a carbon neutral booking,” which allows guests to fully offset their carbon footprint accrued from their travels.
The legendary Fouquet's restaurant that is just adjacent and connected to the hotel merits a whole separate spotlight. Let's just say, if you are in Paris during the César Awards, you can't miss it! And as for the Château La Tour de Bessan? Perfectly elegant, perfectly robust, on a wintry Parisian night on the Champs-Elysées.

Tuesday, December 7, 2010

L'étoile d'Or {chocolat} Boutique

Post by Eric Tenin of Paris Daily Photo

 

Denise owns the Etoile d'Or chocolate shop in Paris, just next to the Moulin Rouge!

Yesterday I had lunch at rue Lepic, with Grazia, an Italian friend of mine who lives in Paris and knows it like the back of her hand. When she asked "what's going to be you PDP photo today?" I replied. "Er... I don't know yet". She said "follow me I have the perfect idea for you..." Then she dragged me into Denise's A l'étoile d'or boutique, the chocolate lovers' den,  at rue Fontaine (a few feet away from the Moulin Rouge). Oh my! What a gas. Not only is Denise an extraordinary character, but on top of that she really knows what she's talking about when it comes to chocolate. You HAVE  to visit this place if you come to Paris. No wonder David Lebovitz (the Paris chocolate master, among other things) spotted her a long time ago already...

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Saturday, December 4, 2010

Today's Special

TODAY’S SPECIAL is a heartwarming comedy with a culinary flavor starring Aasif Mandvi (Daily Show with Jon StewartThe Last Airbender), and renowned Indian actress and best selling cookbook author Madhur Jaffrey.

Samir (Mandvi) is a sous chef who dreams of becoming the head chef at an upscale Manhattan restaurant. When he is passed over for a promotion he impulsively quits and lets his co-worker Carrie (Jess Weixler, TEETH) know that he intends to go to Paris and apprentice under a master French chef.  Dreams must be put aside though after his father Hakim (Harish Patel, RUN FAT BOY RUN) has a heart attack and Samir is forced to take over Tandoori Palace, the nearly bankrupt family restaurant in Jackson Heights.  Samir’s relationship with his parents and his heritage is immediately put to the test. He has been estranged from his father since the death of his older brother, and his mother Farrida, (played by legendary cookbook writer and actor, Madhur Jaffrey), is consumed with finding a wife for her remaining son.


While Samir is being forced to forsake his dreams, he is desperately trying to master Indian cooking to salvage the family business. Luckily, he crosses paths with Akbar, a taxi driver, passionate chef, and worldly raconteur (portrayed by the icon of Indian cinema, Naseeruddin Shah, MONSOON WEDDING). Akbar inspires Samir and teaches him to trust his senses more than recipes; to stop measuring his life, and to start truly living it. With Akbar’s guidance, Samir has a chance to rediscover his heritage and his passion for life through the enchanting art of cooking Indian food.


TODAY’S SPECIAL is produced by Nimitt Mankad’s Inimitable Pictures and Lillian LaSalle’s Sweet 180 (Loggerheads, Sweetland).  The film is directed by Sundance alumni David Kaplan (Year of the Fish) and is written by Aasif Mandvi and Jonathan Bines (Late Night with Jimmy Kimmel).

Rating: R. Running Time: 99 minutes.

 

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Wednesday, December 1, 2010

Independent Winemakers’ Salon – France

Rarely do you get such a glimpse of how basic an element wine is to French culture than at something like the Salon des Vins des Vignerons Indépendants.  At an event like this one, you really get the feel of how wine is actually a basic food group for the French. It's not a luxury or something that needs to be "mastered" but rather as elementary to daily life and basic needs as is water.

Salon des Vins des Vignerons Independants  Photos copyright Thomas Millet

As a tourist or even as a resident foreigner, this Wine Salon is something I plan trips around and mark on the calendar months in advance.  Held this past weekend at the ginormous Expo center that is Porte de Versailles in Paris, I had the chance to sip and taste new and just released vintages from over 250 independent wineries and winemakers from all the regions of France. The question was not a matter of access (entry cost 6 Euro) or accessibility (all the wineries were pouring). The question was whether I had the stamina to last a whole day.  If I were a real pro, I would have gone over the course of each of the consecutive five days and prolonged the learning and the enjoyment, the listening and the tasting, stretching it out for every last drop.

Vigneron-Vigneron

The Salon des Vins des Vignerons Independants is something that everyone even remotely interested in wine must attend at some time. As a window onto wine and French culture, it's unsurpassed. It's also no-frills. And it's held twice a year - in the Fall and in the Spring. The only people I envied as I roamed the alphabetized aisles, were those who were savvy enough to have come with their rolling suitcases which they packed full of bottles and cases of France's most excellent and affordable wines.

Here's a sampling:

Wine Tastings, France. Photo Copyright Laurent Hardhuin.

Champagne Philippe Martin

They are located right in the heart of Champagne just between Reims and Epernay in Cumieres. They grow their chardonnay and pinot noir grapes on 10 hectares and produce 6 crus.

Cuvée de Réserve Brut - dry, frothy bubbly. At 14.40 Euro per bottle at the Salon it stands up to any of the internationally known brands.

Millésime 2002 - aged and made with pinot noir grapes as well as chardonnay, the richer, fruitier grape is detectable as soon as the elixir hits your tongue. At 22 Euro per bottle, you can see why I wish I'd had my rolling suitcase with me.

Alsace

Domaine Gerard Metz "The power of harmony"

The Salon tipplers tended toward the Alsatian wines, I noticed. Perhaps it had something to do with the fact that Paris had just seen its first snowfall of the season this weekend.  It's easy to think of a spicy Gewurztraminer and heavy spaetzle and sausages when it gets cold outside - all things that come from Alsace.

Gewurztraminer Vielles Vignes  2009 at 9 Euro per bottle this tending toward almost sweet gewurz tasted of the grape. In the sense that I almost felt like I had popped a whole grape into my mouth and was drinking of it, and a splash of alcohol.

Gewurztraminer "Cuvée Mégane" 2009 This guy was just shy of a late harvest wine. Its gold color spoke of its autumn, rich flavors even before it made itself known in the mouth. It sells for 13.50Euro per bottle.

Bourgogne - Chablis

It's just too novel when you come to the realization that these wines you've long loved come from an actual place. In this case, Chablis.

Moreau Naudet at 5, rue des Fosses, Chablis offered Petit Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru and Chablis Grand Cru on offer. He ages his white wine for 24 mos. in barrel.

Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 2007 was smooth and classy; its light golden color reminded me of summer in California. 26 Euro

Chablis 1er Cru Montmains 2008 had lively acid playing throughout the mouth. Well-balanced and a white you can keep for a few years and still enjoy. 26 Euro

Domaine Millet "Intensement Chablis"

The winery is in Tonnerre, still within Bourgogne. The Petit Chablis L'Angelusand Petit Chablis were noteworthy, all 2009. They also had their Chablis Vieilles Vignes and Chablis 1er Cru Vaucoupin for sale and to taste. The maturity of the old vines tend to be the wines I gravitate towards. www.chablis-millet.com

Côte du Rhône, St. Joseph

Domaine du Mortier, Saint Joseph by Didier Crouzet. What's a wine tasting if you don't indulge in a bit of the sacred St. Joseph? Part of the geography of Côte Rôtie, a St. Joseph can take good care of you through the Winter. On 10.5 acres Mssr. Crouzet cultivates his vines of character.

Domaine du Mortier, St. Joseph, 2008 A little light. Not often found in this wine or appellation, it can offer a more drinkable alternative to what is usually paired with a good steak or winter roast.

Domaine du Mortier, St. Joseph, 2009 is a considerably more powerful wine. 2009 vintages, like the 2010 harvest, will have legs for years to come. Dark fruit, some wood, wine with a backbone.

Bourgogne, Pouilly-Fuisse

In this cluster were three domains that are run by the same winemakers and which are all independent. The majority they've brought to market this year have won a medal or an award or even a "coup de coeur" from the Guide Hachette des Vins 2011.

Domaine de Fussiacus   Pouilly-Vinzelles 2008. These grapes are from 30-40 year old vines. This lovely tinted yellow gold nectar won the Medaille d'Or Paris et Macon 2010. It was selling for a mere 10.30 Euro.

Domaine Chateau de Chaintre Bourgogne Blanc 2008 is the one which you'll find in the Guide Hachettes des Vins 2011 listed as the Coup de Coeur. It is burgundy chardonnay and its well-balanced, proper notes and aromas make it a perfect choice for a dinner with family and friends.

Domaine de Fussiacus Vielles Vignes Pouilly-Fuisse 2008 had a nose of citrus and a delicious mouth of calcaire and mineral hints.  Another one of those wines I wish I'd bought a case of. 15.10 Euro per bottle.

Corbières

From this region down near Perpignan which is still part of Languedoc-Roussillon you will find wines that have the garrigue in their molecules.

Abbaye de Fontfroide

A husband and wife winemaking team, Nicolas de Chevron Villette married his wife, Laure d'Andoque de Seriege, whose family has owned the Abbaye de Fontfroide and the vines that surround it for centuries. They have a tasting room, a restaurant and they offer vacation stays. It is also just 15 km. away from the region's only 3 Michelin star restaurant run by France's Best Chef 2010.

Abbaye de Fontfroide Cuvée Deo Gratias 2007 A finessed red wine that speaks of the region and the terroir. The nose is aromatic, the mouth hints of the garrigue.

Abbaye de Fontfroide Cuvée Oculus 2009 Though this is a white, it boasts a nutty mouth and an aromatic nose. At 7.10Euro a bottle, it is an elegant wine to serve at table with roasted poultry and new potatoes for example.

Abbaye de Fontfroide Cuvée Deo Gratias 2009 The grapes are Roussanne, Marsanne predominantly and the juice is new barrel aged. 12.90 per bottle.www.fontfroide.com

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Le Cordon Bleu News

Partnership with Slow Food 
Returning to the source 

Slow Food is an international association with over 100 000 members worldwide, dedicated to preserving taste - promoting traditional food products within local ecosystems, educating on food issues, and lobbying against undesirable food practices. Slow Food and Le Cordon Bleu have frequently associated on various projects and events; recently for the Festival Cinemaligre.

Le Cordon Bleu and "Chefs without Borders" 
World Association of Chef’s Societies 

The World Association of Chef’s Societies (WACS) launched the association “Chefs without Borders” in collaboration with Le Cordon Bleu. This humanitarian aid program is pivotal to the history of the fight against hunger. The ceremony held at the Ministry of Economy, Finance and Industry was presided over by Hervé Novelli, the French Secretary of State. The Ambassador of Iceland in France, his excellency Mr. Thorir Ibsen was also present. Le Cordon Bleu was asked to participate by organizing the cocktail at the official opening ceremony.

 

Le Cordon Bleu entertains Chilean President 
The Ultimate Accolade 

Le Cordon Bleu recently had the honour of entertaining Chilean President, Sebastiàn Piñera serving canapés prepared with products from Chile. These products were promoted in the SIAL fair. Chef Terrien, Chef Pablo Galvez from Chile, and a team of students prepared over 1500 canapés, which were served during the official cocktail at the Embassy of Chile.

The 2011 Rugby World Cup 
Cooking Match: New Zealand ‘v’ France 

Our network is expanding into New Zealand next year, we are opening a school in Wellington – the same year the country hosts the 2011 Rugby world cup – their national sport. The first “culinary rugby match” was held on 18 October in Paris. Two teams comprising of Chefs and rugby men competed to make recipes using authentic New Zealand ingredients. International rugby stars Chris Masoe and Dimitri Szarzewski participated in this event.

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Hautes Etudes de Goût 
"Note à Note" dinner by Le Cordon Bleu Chefs 

Hautes Etudes du Goût is a program designed to cover all aspects of “Taste” studies. This specialized intensive course is only held once a year – this year’s participants were entertained to a unique “note à note” menu prepared by the Chefs from our faculty in collaboration with Hervé This.

Watch the video.

 

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