Friday, December 27, 2013

KRUG: The Art of Blending Pleasure

by Paige Donner

Can't think of a better Christmas present this year than a cellar tour
and tasting at Krug.

Isn't it too true that oftentimes « the best » is shrouded in mystery
? People tell you something is the best but unless you try it for
yourself and unless you have the same tastes as the tastemakers, how
do you ever really know if « the best » is the best in your estimation
?

See Full Photo SlideShow On Local Food And Wine
http://localfoodandwine.wordpress.com/2013/12/22/krug-the-art-of-blending-pleasure/


Krug Cellars Reims, photo c. Paige Donner

« Taste is subjective, » says Julie Murez, Krug's Hospitality Manager.
For a House that has a global reputation of being the best champagne,
at least, say, Top Ten, this was a refreshingly humble statement to
hear from someone representing a champagne house.

For my upcoming report for World Radio Paris – see my program World of
Wine http://www.worldradioparis.com/ – I will dive more into the
details of the house and its philosophy, but here I'd like to remain
within the comfort of first impressions. And these first impressions
were very comforting.

Pleasure. Their emphasis on the pleasure of the experience of drinking
a glass of Krug champagne feels so right. Nevermind why it tastes so
good and goes down so easily, let's just focus on how darned good it
makes your senses tingle and feel. That is, receive a glass of Krug
with your emotions, less with your intellect, and you will grasp
better its goodness.

Playfulness. I had not expected this underlying tone of playfulness
within such a dignified house, one of the most established in Reims.
But there it was : Playfulness. From hearing how the Tasting Committee
tastes each wine from each unique plot (nearly 250) as well as the 150
reserve wines kept in their cellars and how no hard and fast blending
rules are obeyed – rather a dance with nature is what is achieved.
What nature has given that year is what is respected, recognized and
then « mis en valeur » that fantastic French phrase that means cast in
the best possible of lights.

History. In many contexts the word history can feel stuffy and evokes
images and feelings of austere, untouchable, distant, encased in
something that makes it removed from life today. But there at Krug,
the new President, « Maggie » as this Argentinian woman is apparently
known to all the staff, mined the nuggets of the house's history when
she arrived in 2009. With these nuggets, they assembled a rich human
history of just how Joseph Krug, who once worked for Jacquesson
Champagnes, in its day the biggest champagne producer in the region,
married his boss's English wife's sister and then, for his love of and
loyalty to quality before all else, felt impelled to start his own
champagne house. And this is how Krug was born.

"Our unconventional approach, the way we make choices that are not the
easiest ones and go beyond the rules when needed illustrate our vision
– a constant since the very foundation of the House of Krug." -
Olivier Krug, Director of Krug, Sixth Generation

See Full Photo SlideShow On Local Food And Wine
http://localfoodandwine.wordpress.com/2013/12/22/krug-the-art-of-blending-pleasure/

There were many more surprises, all good, all enjoyable, that awaited
me that wintry morning on my Krug Cellar visit…That the cuvées,
regardless of their price, are not seen as better than the other. «
There's no hierarchy at Krug, » repeated Julie several times ; Their
oak barrels that they keep in a pyramid formation ; And their two wine
libraries, one of bottles that date back to 1880 and the other that
house tenderly cultivated grapes that have been gently pressed into
juice and then fermented into wines that will be the blends of their
champagne in the years and decades to come.

Enjoy the photos. And yes, be good to yourself, open up and enjoy a
bottle of Krug with yourself and someone who appreciates you a whole
lot. And then decide for yourself if a champagne that the world deems
« the best » is really the best for you.

And Good Heavens, don't forget that before all else there's a huge
dose of pleasure to be had in each bottle of Krug.

KrugLovers.com

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♥Chérie Du Vin

http://cherieduvin.tumblr.com

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